When replacing hinges and latches for walk-in refrigerators it is important to get an exact or comparable replacement part. The back of the part will stamped with a series of numbers and letters called a mold number. The back may also read “flush” or have the offset size (e.g. 1-3/4″). It is important to have that number on the back to ensure you get the proper replacement. Additionally, having the serial number of your walk-in (often located in the door jamb on the hinge side or in a corner inside panel) can be a huge help if you’re ordering the replacement part from the walk-in manufacturer or your parts supplier.
Walk-in cooler and freezer hinges are either flush or offset. The easiest way to determine which style you have is to place your hand on the outside wall of the walk-in and slide it towards the door. If the door stops your hand from moving across the door, then you have an offset door. If your hand slides across the door, it is flush.
Determine the offset measurement by measuring from the wall surface to the door surface. The offset measurement combined with the mold number on the back will ensure you receive the correct hinge.
Some hinges are spring assisted and some are self-closing:
- Self-closing hinges use a cam-rise system to close the door. The door rides up the sloped cam when opening and back down to add the force of gravity when closing.
- Some hinges have spring assist kits available. These kits will add to the closing force of your door and provide more pressure for a tighter seal when closed. As with all latches and hinges, there’s a number on the back for identifying the correct replacement
- It is possible to have one hinge cam rise (bottom) and one spring assisted (top).
Additionally, many walk-in hinges are reversible. If you receive a hinge and it is the opposite of what you need, you can reverse the new hinge by removing the pin assembly from the strap and reinserting it in the opposite end.
Handles & Latches
Walk-in latches, like hinges, can be configured for offset or flush doors. Use the same procedure as you would for a hinge to determine if it is an offset or flush latch. The component that makes a latch offset is not the handle itself but the strike (roller or catch mounted to the frame). These strikes are sometimes adjustable (e.g. 3/4″ to 1-1/2″). Try and get the mold number off both the handle and the strike to be certain you are getting the right replacement latch.